Narayan,
or Vishnu, is the preserver of creation
to Hindus. His temple near Changu village
is often described as the most ancient temple
in the Kathmandu Valley. A fifth century
stone inscription, the oldest to be discovered
in Nepal, is located in the temple compound
and it tells of the victorious King Mandev.
The temple now covers sixteen hundred years
of Nepalese art history. The temple, built
around the third century, is decorated by
some of the best samples of stone, wood,
and metal craft in the Valley. In the words
of one tourist guide, "When you look
upon Changu Narayan, you observe the complete
cultural development of the Valley."
On the struts of the two-tiered Changu Narayan
Temple, are the ten incarnations in which
Narayan destroyed evil-doers. A sixth-century
stone statue shows the cosmic form of Vishnu,
while another statue recalls his dwarf incarnation
when he crushed the evil king Bali. Vishnu
as Narsingha disemboweling a demon is particularly
stunning. The western bronze doors sparkle
in the evening sunlight, dragons decorate
the bells, and handsome devas stare from
the walls. Garuda, half man and half bird,
is the steed of Vishnu, and his life-sized
statue kneels before the temple. The favourite
of many tourists is the statue of Vishnu
sitting astride his steed.
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