Land
The area of the Indian federal state of Sikkim encompasses solely
the upper valley and the source of the Teesta River - a tributary
of the Brahmaputra. Roughly square in shape, the country is bound
to the north, east and west by three watershed ridges; the eastern
and northern border is with Tibet whilst the western border with Nepal
runs along the Singalila Ridge, a spur of Kanchenjunga. The southern
border with West Bengal is formed by the mountain rivers Rangit and
Rangpo, both of them tributaries of the Teesta. Nowadays Sikkim proper
begins at the foot of the mountains, but in former times encompassed
Darjeeling and Kalimpong. Sikkim's landscape is dominated by the 8,597
metre high (28,370-ft.high) massif of Kanchenjunga and its 31 kilometre
long (18.6 miles) Zemu glacier on the western border. The long Teesta
valley, traversing the whole country from north to south, allows the
summer monsoon rain to push far to the north at its highest level
of intensity. As a result of these large amounts of rainwater many
narrow valleys were deeply cut into the rather soft stone (Daling
slate) in the south. Level surfaces can be found only in the most
extreme north (High Sikkim), where the dryness has created a treeless
alpine steppe. Its barren high surfaces and mountains covered with
rubble and boulder formations mark the transition to the highlands
of Tibet. Due to the heavy precipitation,
the mountainous landscapes of upper and lower Sikkim are heavily
forested. In the lower levels can be found the wet sal forest -
a hardwood related to teak and host to more than 600 species of
orchids. As you ascend you pass through a great variety of forest
landscapes - tropical evergreen mountain and rain forests, characterised
by tree ferns and epiphytes. Higher still there is bamboo, oak,
beech, chestnut, giant magnolia, rhododendron trees and, highest
of all, various species of conifers. The tree line itself varies
from 3,600 to 4,200 metres (12,000 to 14,000ft) above sea level.
In Sikkim tropical plants of different climatic regions mix together
as nowhere else in the Himalaya. A corresponding variety exists
in the animal world, with over 500 species of birds in this small
area alone. Antelope, wild sheep and goats as well as wild asses
and yaks can be found in the north. In the forested valleys live
bears, lesser (red) pandas, silver foxes and leopards, and in the
south rhesus macaques, langurs and other monkey species.
History
In the 13th century Tibetans began to emigrate to Sikkim. In the
15th century the Namgyal family migrated from east Tibet (Kham)
and settled in the Chumbi valley. From there the family won increasing
political influence over Sikkim. In 1642 Chogyal or Gyalpo (king)
Phuntsog Namgyal (1604-70) was placed at the top of a strong ruling
system based on Lamaistic Buddhism. He divided the land into 12
"Dzongs" - fortified districts.
In the 18th century armies from Bhutan and the Gurkha
empire in Nepal invaded. Sikkim lost considerable amounts of territory
to its neighbouring kingdoms. When the Gurkhas were defeated by
the Chinese army in a campaign against Tibet in 1791-92, Sikkim
won back its northern sections, but the Chumbi valley was to remain
in Tibet.
After the British victory over Nepal in 1817, the
southern part of the country was given back to Sikkim. However,
during the next conflict with Nepal in 1827, Darjeeling had to be
relinquished to the British to gain their support. In 1848 the entire
Terai Lowlands and the mountain periphery was annexed by British
India. Within a single century Sikkim was reduced to a fraction
of its former territory.
Since the beginning of the 19th century, Nepalese
have increasingly emigrated to Sikkim, eventually surpassing the
number of natives. This led to internal tension. After the British
had refused to help stop the influx of Nepalese, the Gyalpos supported
a Tibetan military plan during which Tibet seized a stretch of land
near Darjeeling with a small unit of troops. In ensuing battles
the British retained the upper hand and Sikkim became a British
protectorate in 1890. The British had won their long sought-after
gateway to Tibet.
The state was controlled for years by the British
political officer Claude White, who in effect stripped the Gyalpos
of their power. Not until the reign of Sidkeong Tulku and Tashi
Namgyal was the king's power restored.
The Indian Union took over the protectorate in 1950
and intervened between representatives of different Sikkim ethnic
groups in 1973 after long lasting political conflicts. The Gyalpos
lost their power as a result of the new democratic constitution.
Consequently the pro-Indian Nepali population became more influential.
A law introduced into the parliament made Sikkim, by annexation
an associated Indian partial state. It became the 22nd federal state
of the Indian Union in 1975 through an amendment to the constitution.
People
The original inhabitants of Sikkim are the Lepchas, who call themselves
Rongpas. In contrast to the native Lepchas, the Bhutia who immigrated
between the 13th and 15th centuries are of Tibetan origin. They
speak a dialect that comes closer to Old Tibet than to the Lhasa
dialect and their culture is influenced by Lamaism. Among the Tsong
(Nepali immigrants) there are Buddhists as well, even followers
of the Bon faith and animists. The majority of Tsong, however, who
make up 60% of the population, are of Hindu faith and Nepali has
been generally adopted in lower Sikkim. The elder Tibeto-Burmese
languages, including Lepcha which possessed its own alphabet, have
lost importance.
Cities
GANGTOK
Altitude: 1550m
Population: 82,000
Once the Sikkimese capital, now the state capital,
Sikkim sits astride a steep sided ridge in a similar setting to
Kalimpong. The town itself is a little run down, built helter skelter
across the hill sides. The Chogyal’s palace on top of the
ridge is still inhabited by his politically powerless descendants,
although they are still held in deep respect by conservative Sikkimese.
The town is small, with most facilities in the space of a couple
of streets. Along the top of the ridge there are plenty of vantage
points across the surrounding hills, and there are numerous parks
and gardens to rest in.
Places to visit include the Government Institute of
Cottage Industries, a craft centre, Enchey Monastery just outside
the town, the various Orchidaria and Gardens, and the bustling town
market. The Chogyal’s Palace is closed to the public. At the
southern end of the town is the Research Institute of Tibetology,
a study centre, with the Do Drul chorten above it. |